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My trip to the West Country that began last Saturday and ended on Wednesday went by in a flash of thunderous rain and ice cream. When the weather was good (Saturday, Tuesday, Wednesday), it was really good - we lounged on the harbour beach and ate fish & chips, but when it was bad (Sunday, Monday), it was really bad - we had no choice but to haul ourselves up indoors, where we played Trivial Pursuit and ate biscuits topped with clotted cream. I stayed with my family in a little pink house, overlooking the harbour at Ilfracombe (the view above was from my bedroom window).
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In October last year, Damien Hirst installed his 66 foot bronze-clad sculpture
Verity at the end of Ilfracombe's pier. The statue of a pregnant female holding a sword aloft and standing on a base of legal books is meant to be a modern allegory of truth and justice. Before our holiday, and after a lot of reading about
Verity's recent arrival, I really wasn't sure how I would react to her, but by the end of our stay, I had grown to like the statue very much. It's certainly a very impressive sight.
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Seagulls, seagulls, everywhere.
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I spent a morning walking along one of the nearby beaches (in a regrettable choice of footwear), exploring rock pools and clumsily clambering over jagged, slippery rocks.
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Raging seas. The tides reach incredibly high around this part of the coast.
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In front of our house. I love this shade of pink.
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On Tuesday we drove twenty miles down the road, through Exmoor National Park, to Lynmouth. Thomas Gainsborough, who honeymooned here, described Lynmouth as 'the most delightful place for a landscape painter this country can boast'.
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Lynmouth sits in a gorge, 700 feet below the town of Lynton, to which it is connected by a water powered cliff railway.
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I travelled up to Lynton via the railway with the aim of visiting a little antique shop that resides down one of the town's perfectly formed side streets. Strangely, I dreamt about buying a blue glass vase from a junk shop a night or two before, but alas, no blue glass vases were to be found here. I did however pick up this black & white picture history book for a couple of pounds - it documents house building in England from the Mediaeval period through to the 60s. In the afternoon, I sat on a deckchair by the sea, Cornish pasty in one hand, book in the other, and read through it, historical period by historical period. (I love the simple cover design.)
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A final shot of the sea. The skies were about to open; the depths looked ominous.